A quiet weekend here at the Blog . . . so I figured since some have asked for help with rug hooking, I will just post a few bits of info on some of the basics. For you experienced rug hookers reading this, post a comment or question that would be of more interest and we can get some chatter going for you, too.
One common question from beginning rug hookers is about strip widths. Traditional rug hooking uses strips of wool, not pieces of yarn – that’s latch hooking (totally different technique and tools.) The strips of wool are pulled through the rug backing to form loops which create the design of the rug. Strips of wool can be cut very fine or very wide, or anywhere in between. When a strip cutter such as a Rigby, Fraser, or Townsend cutter is used to cut the strips, you select the cutter size to use. Cutters cut the strips in widths measured in 32nds of an inch. So if you are using a #8 cutter size, you will get strips cut into 8/32 of an inch (or reduce the fraction to 1/4 inch.)
If you are using a finely cut strip, which would be considered anything in a #5 or lower, you are working with quite a narrow strip of wool (5/32 down to 1/32), which is used to achieve finely shaded designs, such as florals and scrolls. Primitive rug hooking uses a wider strip (#6 and above) wherein the shading is achieved through the use of textured wools, such as herringbones, checks and plaids rather than the graduated colors in a finer cut rug.
So, depending upon the style of rug hooking you wish to do, you will cut your wool strips accordingly. My favorite strips width is 3/8 inch, or 12/32; however, depending on your cutter, this will not always be a #12 cutter head — now it can get a bit confusing due to inconsistencies in the cutter manufacturers use of the numbering system when you get above a #8 cut. My Rigby defines the 3/8-inch cutter head as a #9, which technically is not or it would be 9/32 rather than 12/32. So, check with the manufacturer if you want to use a specific strip width above #8 to see which of their particular cutter heads match what you need.
Depending on the strip width you choose, you should match your rug hook to that. If you are hooking with a wider strip, use a Primitive hook, or if you use a fine cut, use a hook that matches the strip width you are using. My favorite hook? A Hartman, by far!! Especially for primitive hooking with wider strips – Cindy Hartman’s hooks have a larger diameter shaft that opens the backing holes enough to easily allow the strip to be pulled through (no straining and tugging), which also helps those loops lie open and full. the handles are very comfortable in my hand as well. Be sure the hook you use is comfortable in your hand and does not make you tug and twist to get the loops pulled up. If not, get another hook!
Any questions?


















I hope you will be able to help me. I have an old strip cutter I found in my husband’s Grandmothers things. It does not cut. I think it is either assembled incorrectly or perhaps has extra pieces that are taken off or put on to achieve different size strips. Where can I find a good picture or directions of a cutter assembly? The cutter clamps on a table and has a Ridgeway crafts sticker on the side. I would appreciate any help you can provide. Thank you.
Rebecca – I sent you an email with some photos and information. I hope it helps!
Sally
Rebecca I had 2 Ridgeway cutters.. both now sold, but do have a copy of the care instructions.. and might be able to help you out with the assembly.. really isnt’ a lot to them… but they DO cut well, etc.
Thank you. We were able to get the cutter working . I would be interested in getting a copy of the care instruction for the cutters. Are the instructions something you could copy and mail to me? I would be happy to pay copying cost and postage. Thank you
Hi Sally -
I’m in the same boat. I bought a used Rigby cutter without instructions. I can’t get it to cut completely through all four strips of fabric and am not sure how much to tighten it for fear of dulling the blades. Is there supposed to be some kind of cushioning surface, or do the blades just run on the steel plate? Am I worrying too much? Any advice would be great.
Thanks,
Chel
Chel
There is no cushion – the blades running against the cutting wheel is what allows the wool to be cut. You will have to adjust the cutting tension depending on the weight of the wool – so don’t be afraid to crank it down a little if it’s not cutting all the way through. I would guess that if it is not cutting through on any of the strips, you probably need more tension. As long as the cutter is not making awful noises or is not difficult to crank, the tension is not too hard. My cutter is doing the same thing now after all these years of service, but just one of the three #8 strips doesn’t cut completely through. I think either that one blade edge is dull or burred, or there is a groove worked into the cutting wheel on that side. Some service is probably needed, but I love this cutter so it will be worth it. I am going to try a new cutter head first and if that doesn’t solve the problem, then will order the cutting wheel. Tips: keep the cutter mechanism free of wool dust, oil it with WD20 machine oil every once in a while, don’t cut too many synthetics with it. It is a pretty simple machine so not that much can really go wrong, other than parts wearing out and needing to be replaced.
who knows what a Ridgeway Crafts union NH Fabric stripper
Michael – I am not sure I understand your question. I do know that Ridgeway made a cloth stripper to cut strips for rug hooking. Could you be a little more specific?
Sally
I have an old ridgeway cutter with a M- medium 1/8 cutter. I am wondering if there is any way I can get more cutter blades. I have looked at townsend and aults they seem similar. If you have any information please send it to me.
Caroline – sorry to be so late in snwering you. As far as I know, Ridgeway has been out of business for some time. I am unaware of any place where you can get new blades. I would call Larry Ault and ask if his blades would work in your cutter, or if he could give you any more help with that. http://www.aults.com
Sally
Someone gave me a Rigby cutter. I have a #8 blade to put into the machine, but i don’t know how to change it. i unscrewed all the screws but the blade that is in there will not come off. Rather than prying it off, I wondered if there is an easy way of doing it. Thanks.
Sandra
Sandra
See my answer to Georgia regarding disassembly of the Ribgy. If you need more help, send me an email or call me — I am terrible about getting to the blog! I will post the instructions in this section as well.
Sally
I have a used Rigby D cutter with #6 and #8I blades. I have only used the #8raspberries but purchased a kit and with #8 1/2 strips and LOVE working with them on linen backing. I would like to get at least one more cutting blade but wonder if I should get the binding 81/2 or 9. Where do you purchase these and the fingers? I also do not have the instruction book.
Connie – see my answer to Georgia about disassembly. You can find new cutter blades and fingers at http://www.halcyonyarn.com
Sally
I, too bought a used wool cutter, and I think it is an old Rigby. Sadly, it didn’t come with instructions, and I would lilke to clean it up. It sounds like there is dust or sand in it when you turn the handle, so I am worried about using it without cleaning it.
I can’t get the handle off so that I can remove the cutter blade and clean under it. There seems to be a set screw on the handle base; do I need to remove something there to take off the cutting wheel?
I would love to have a copy of the instructions.
Georgia and Connie and Sandra
this answer is regarding the Rigby disassembly. Sorry you waited so long — I hope I am not too late to help you all.
1. Remove the Rigby from the table (if it is clamped down.)
2. Turn it upside down and take off the thumbscrew that you see at the end of the cutter blade(s).
3. Completely loosen the red T-knob at the top side which holds the cutting wheel down against the cutter blade(s) (don’t take it off though.) That will open hole so the cutter blade(s) have room to drop down and be removed.
4. Now pull the handle out (the handle shaft runs through the holes in the cutting blades.) The blades should drop down and come out now.
5. Replace the blade(s) in to the hole (note where the little notches are and line them up) then run the handle back through the center of the blade(s), aligning the notch on the shaft with the notch in the blade(s).
6. Screw on the thumbscrew to hold the handle and blade(s) in place.
7. Clamp the cutter to your table. Now you can crank the T-knob back down to adjust for your fabric thickness.
Wish I had pictures to show you – it would make more sense. Just do one step at a time and you’ll get it.
Thanks, Sallly, for the info. When I got to #4 of your instructions and tried pulling the handle out, it wouldn’t budge. Could it have rusted in there, though I see no evidence of rust anywhere on the machine? Thanks!
Sally, you seem to such a wealth of information I’m hoping you can help with my cutter question as well. : ) I had been using an old Rigby cutter and it worked wonderfully. I later bought a Fraser thinking it would be better, but my strips wind around the lower cutting wheel. Are there supposed to be cutter “fingers” on the Fraser like the old Rigby had? Or is there some way of preventing them from wrapping around. I am anxious to get hooking, if only I can figure this Fraser out. Thanks for your help! Happy New Year.
Pat in Wisconsin
Pat
Here is Harry Fraser’s web site — I didn’t see any cleaning fingers there. Perhaps you can contact them through the web site and ask about the problem directly? I really don’t have any experience with Fraser cutters, so I can’t be of much help. Thanks for visiting the Blog!! Happy Hooking!!
Sally
Sorry – forgot to include the url for Fraser!
http://fraserrugs.com/Business/productsbusiness/productsbusiness.htm
Sally
Hi again… let me check my awful computer filing system and see if I can find it … otherwise I can scan it and email it to you… sue
My hubby had a copy… will be glad to email it to you. Where should I email it to… Sincerely, Sue
Please email the care instructions for the cutter to max_reb@hotmail.com
Thank you so much for sharing!
Rebecca
Thank you for such a good explanation on cutter sizes and strips. I am a beginner at rug hooking and did not know how the size strips translated to the cutters, but now I do!
I also learned that the cutter my mother gave to me is a Rigby, so I’m very grateful for the comments here, too. After reading, I found a website where I can order additional cutter heads for the Rigby. The #3 head is my only one and whew is that a tiny strip!
Thanks so much!
Lynn–
I am so happy that we were all able to help you find the answers to your cutter questions. You can get extra heads (and don’t forget to buy the cleaning finger that coprresponds to each head size you use!) at http://www.halcyonyarn.com too. A #3 is waaayyyy smaller than I would ever hope to hook with – I am a wide-cut hooker for sure! Good luck and enjoy your hooking journey!
Sally
Thanks Sally. I had found the Halcyon website and I’m glad that you mentioned it too. I’ll probably get the #5 and the finger as my first add-on to the cutter.
It figures that I’d start out this way — I can’t ever seem to learn a new skill with a small beginner project. My first hooking project is a rug, 3′ X 4′, using a Hit And Miss pattern (at least the basic stripe is easy, eh?) following along the coloring found in Deanne Fitzpatrick’s beautiful rug seen here: http://blog.hookingrugs.com/2011/08/hit-and-miss/ . Her rug is soooo long (I want that rug!) and where her blocks contain 14-15 strips within the black borders, mine have 19. Not significant til you start adding all the extra strips up. But it’s enjoyable, so I continue on….
Thanks again for this great post!
could you please send me a copy of the ridgeway crafts cutter instructions ? my email is lynnannd@sbcglobal.net.
thanks so much!!! I was given one many years ago and just now want to start rug hooking.
lynn ann
I am going to upload the copy of the instructions for the Ridgeway Cutter. Thanks to Sue Fellenzer and her hubby for sending them to me.