Rug Hooking Tutorials
February 24, 2008
I get more and more emails and calls from folks who have taken a workshop or class, and then when they get back home or some time has passed since they last hooked, they have forgotten some of the details of what they learned. So, I would 
be happy to help with that.
If there is interest in mini-tutorials or just Q&A here at the Blog on rug hooking, questions or problems with details or techniques, just leave a comment and let’s see what we can do together! If enough of you have similar problems, I can write up a tutorial to post here, otherwise, perhaps we can just learn from one another’s FAQ and the suggested solutions. Ask away!
February 24, 2008 at 3:04 pm
I have a qestion! Thank you for offering the help…
I’m hooking using a puritan frame and some kind of linen foundation. I am finding that the work lifts off of the frame as I hook and it constantly needs to be re-mounted. I’m not very experienced, and this is the first time I’ve hooked on linen. Could I be hooking too tightly and packing those loops, or is there another reason for this?
February 24, 2008 at 7:38 pm
Ann – I have heard this problem expressed before. There are three grades of gripper strips and each works “best” with specific types of rug backings. If you check the Howard Brush web site (they make the gripper strips found on most rug hooking frames), you’ll see the grades and which backings they work with best. I am not sure how you will know which you have on your Puritan though, but if you call them, they may be able to help you by phone.
EH3CC – For use with Burlap
EH4CC – For use with Monk’s Cloth
EH5CC – For use with Linen
Tel: (800) 556-7710
http://www.howardbrush.com/rughook.html
The finer grade grippers do seem to be less effective in holding the primitive linen backing, which has a somewhat shinier or slicker surface than hairless linen. That could be the problem. It can be solved by pre-washing the linen. Be aware though that linen will really fray during washing and you would have to serge the edges first (a lot to go through before you can start hooking.) Before you do that, try some very lightweight sandpaper (maybe a wet/dry 600 grade) and lightly rub it across the surface to lift up the fibers a bit — that might help solve the problem. The other thing that could be hapening is if your Puritan is used, the gripper strips might be bent or need to be replaced. Also on the Puritan, after you position the pattern, you have to tighten it using the little levers that pull out the slack and tighten the pattern on the frame (in case you weren’t aware of that.)
If you are packing your loops, it shouldn’t affect the ability of your frame to hold your pattern tightly — but you don’t want to pack, either. If you can see lines of the backing between your hooked rows when you look at the back of your hooking, then you are probably okay and not packing. Skip a couple of backing holes between each loop and when you move to an adjoining row, the loops should not push each other out of shape, but should just barely touch each other from one row to the next. I hope this helps you — come back and let us know if you solve the problem.
February 25, 2008 at 11:17 am
Hi Sallyoh, I have searched and searched for a video on rug hooking and found none to address the hookoing itself.(youtube has a few on subject) I have to turn my work all the time and know this is not what you are suppose to do. Do you know of any videos or cds on rug hooking? I know of no one in this area of Ohio who has classes or even hooks. No wool either to be found. (southeast Ohio.near Portsmouth.) Thanx Sally for this blog. Sharon
February 25, 2008 at 12:07 pm
Hi Sharon
Rittmier Hurst Field in Canada sells a video on rug hooking. I have not personally viewed it, but this is what their description says:
“LET’S HOOK VIDEO – With Jeanne Field
Jeanne directs you on a clear step by step journey through the world of Rug Hooking. This 55 minute “How to” video covers the basics of hooking a rug, including:
* hooking techniques
* equipment needed
* fabric preparation
* starting and finishing a rug
* transferring a design”
At a cost of $29.95 (Canadian), it would be worth getting, I think.
You can call them toll free: 1-800-268-9813 or visit their web site at:
http://letshookrugs.com
There are quite a few really good rug hooking resources in southern Ohio (Kettering, Marietta, Cinncinati, Roseville among others) but they are probably farther than you’d like to travel on a regular basis. There are also some in West Va. – such as in Williamstown, WV. You can also keep a watch for rug hooking camps and workshops that might be a better bet for you. You travel to the cap and spend a week or so taking classes and workshops, then go home.
As far as wool goes, you can recycle wool you buy at thrift shops and Goodwill stores. You can read about what to look for and how to recycle it on my web site’s rug hooking pages.
http://www.amherst-antiques-folkart.com/RugHooking.htm
And there are many great sources for rug hooking wool online. Shop online and let these great gals just ship it to your door! Check my Links page for some of those.
If anyone knows of a shop near Sharon in Portsmouth OH where she can get instructions and supplies, please let us know by leaving a Comment.
Sally
March 9, 2008 at 12:20 pm
[...] posts will just fall in with the rest of the general posts. So, continue to add Comments to the old Rug Hooking Tutorials post, as you had been. Sorry to confuse you – I couldn’t help it cuz I was confused! But I can [...]
March 12, 2008 at 3:33 pm
I am new to rug hooking. I have been a wool saver for a looooong time. I am stalled at the prospect of buying a frame. I am probably overthinking it…do you have any advise or preferences? I am thinking…rounded grippers, adjustable all over the place, wood or otherwise…but $700.00?????gulp!
March 13, 2008 at 12:05 am
Joann – start with an inexpensive frame that has gripper strips to hold your wool and is sturdily built. As long as it remains large enough for you, you might never need another one. I still use my first frame for most projects, unless I am working on a very large rug, then I get out my floor stand frame with the large top. There are many small to medium size frames to choose from in the range of $85 – 200.00. I start my students on Mad Hen frames. They come from the Mad Hen (www.madhen.com) in Marietta OH. You can check them out online. If you want one that swivels and tilts, I have some nice ones on my site at: (www.amherst-antiques-folkart.com/RugHooking_Supplies.htm) that are made in Arkansas. Check those out too. There are also nice ones by Turtle Creek that are collapsible if you plan on taking your hooking traveling to camps or workshops – I think Kindred Spirits (www.kindredspiritdesigns.com) sells those.I don’t know which frame you saw for $700.00, but unless it hooks for you, and what fun would that be?, it’s probably really not necessary to have to pay that much for a suitable frame. Hope this helps you make a decision.
March 16, 2008 at 9:41 am
I am new too, and just placed an order for an Aults frame and stand. (Oh ok, and another hook too, lol.) I haven’t been able to find many other hooking blogs, might you have some links to share?
Anxious to get started in Tucson, AZ.
==============================
HeyFitzy – let me do some oking around and I will get back here with some links to other rug hooking blogs (I hope.)
Sally
March 23, 2008 at 7:36 am
I am extremely interesting in seeing your tutorials!! I am a beginner rug hooker so more information and techniques are always great
=================
Well Katrina, my intent was to post actual Tutorials here, but I was remiss in my understanding of how this blog format worked. So this sequence of posts is to serve as tutorials. Just ask for something specific in the way of information or instruction, and I will post the instructions, etc. right here. Thanks for stopping by – please come back and let’s talk!
Sally
March 23, 2008 at 6:44 pm
Hi again, Sally!
I emailed Howard Brush and learned that Puritan Frames have gripper strips for monks cloth. Then I bought some hairless linen and have two rugs going with that, and it’s wonderful. Very easy to hook, and unless I’m wrestling right next to the edge, the linen stays put. Thank you for your help and insight.
Ann
======================
Oh good Ann – I am so happy that you found a solution. See, we are all still learning all the time – ain’t it great?
Sally
March 25, 2008 at 8:05 pm
Could you post an entry about rug finishing? I’m confused about when is the best time to put the tape on, and when it’s appropriate to whip the edges, etc.
=====================================
Fitzy
Some folks sew the rug binding tape on before they start to hook. I prefer to sew it on after I am done with the hooking. It really doesn’t matter either way, but if you wait to add it after the hooking is done, you have the ability to manipulate your outside border if you decide to do that. For example: If I wanted to add an extra row of color around my border at the end, but I had sewn the binding tape on before I started hooking, I wouldn’t be able to add a row without first taking off the tape.
You can always whip your edges. I think it finished the rug off beautifully and it sure helps the edges stay nice longer. The best online instructions I’ve seen for whipping the edges of a rug are on Cindi Gay’s website here: http://www.cindigay.com/3Eschool/Finishing/3whipped_edge.htm
She has other pages of instructions there as well. And if you are not familiar with her work, you gotta look – she is an amazing hooker!
I hope I helped a little bit Fitzy – if you have any specific questions of problems with whipping etc., just come back and ask another question. thanks for stopping in – bookmark me here andcome back oftn — I love to chat with you all.
Sally
June 4, 2008 at 12:11 pm
I also am having problems with Linen on my Puritan frame. When I order patterns, some people don’t know what “hairless” linen is and neither do I! Could you explain what it is and how it differs from the primitive linen, or is there another name or brand that I could use to be sure I get the right material? Thank you so much..
Alex – I am so sorry to have been so long in answering your questions. Please go back and read the first comment in this post for an explanation to Sharon about gripper strip grades on Puritan frames. Also, hairless linen is a smooth and very soft, drape-y linen with very few surface fibers (hairs) that will hold tight to almost any grade grippers, whereas the primitive linen is a bit stiffer and has more surface fibers. Some people find that Prim Linen does not work very well with the finer grade of gripper strips. Hope that helps you understand the difference.
Sally
June 4, 2008 at 3:50 pm
Hi Sally and friends,
I don’t understand what hairless linen is. My linen lifts off my Puritan frame too, and reading Ann’s comments helped. But pattern sellers don’t understand me when I ask if their linen is hairless, and frankly, neither do I. Could you give a little explanation? Is it primitive linen? Or Scottish linen? Or Dorr linen? Help!! Thank you in advance.
June 11, 2008 at 11:38 am
Is there a formula for how much wool yarn is needed for a rug pattern? I like to do rug punching, but not sure how much wool yarn is needed for my patterns. I use #10 Oxford Punch Needle (which makes a 1/4″ loop).Thank you for any help you can offer.
Hi Teresa
Sorry to take so long to respond to your comment. I have not used the Oxford much to do rugs with yarn. What I would suggest is that you punch maybe 6 square inches on a scrap piece of foundation and measure how much yarn you use. I assume it will vary depending on how tightly you punch and the weight of the yarn you are using. Once you know how much it takes to do a specific size, you can use that as a “formula” to figure each area of your design and purchase your yarn accordingly. I hope that makes sense to you.
Sally
July 29, 2008 at 8:21 am
I have a question. Just starting to hook rugs and am trying to figure out how to do points and corners crisply.
Apologies again to you, Gail, for not being here to answer your question! This one is easy to show, but not as easy to explain in writing. Corners – hook along the line and when you come to the end, turn the corner by hooking the first loop on the second line perpendicular to the last loop on the first line. I’ll try to show you using typed characters – they won’t be the same size, but perhaps will give you a visual idea of what I just said (line one along the left with you hooking toward the top of the diagram, line two along the top, with you hooking left to right, away from the corner:
-|||||||||||||||||||
-
-
-
-
You sort of do the same thing with each star point. Always turn your strip beneath your work so that it falls in the direction you want it to lie. Then when you pull the loop up, it should face the way you intend it to, and you can adjust it with just a slight turn of the hook. When you hook the loop following that direction-changing loop, don’t pull away from the last loop or you will either pull it out of position or pull it out of the backing all together. When you pull the loop up, roll your hook and the loop toward the last loop ypu pulled and it will help keep that last loop in place. Try it, and you’ll see what I mean.
Sally
November 17, 2008 at 8:20 am
Hi’ I’m looking for a plan to build a hooking frame that will tilt and turn around on a ball joint?!!! My husband can build anything’if I can show him a plan. thank you
December 30, 2008 at 4:52 pm
Hi, Sally,
I have a consignment shop for ladies’ and men’s fashions, so you know I can save up lots of wool to hook rugs like my grandmother used to. She has some great storybook designs, poem designs, and geometrics.
I also save up silk fabric, and am looking for ideas to recyle them. rug hooking a possibility? Some have been washed, so color and texture is not always vibrant anymore, but hate to throw away what might be interesting.
Need ideas for ties too! tons of ties.
Happy New Year!
Kathy
September 6, 2009 at 2:23 pm
Wow Kathy – shoot me! It’s been soooo long since I checked this blog section – I am so sorry. If you are still wondering if you can hook with strips of silk, the answer is yes. It will ravel more than wool, but I have seen some small silk hooked mats that are absolutely beautiful! If you haven’t already, give it a try.
As far as your ties, weave them into a seat for a chair (like we used to weave sit-upon mats when we were little out of newspaper –over-under-over-under.) Or sew them together to make whole cloth and then cut them and sew them into vests – those are stunning!
January 19, 2009 at 2:15 pm
Hi: I am a fairly new hooker and had a question re how to get two pieces of wool (as I know is necessary for each hole) when you are at an end or caught in a place where you can’t pull up a second piece of wool? Thank you. Jean
September 6, 2009 at 2:25 pm
Jean – ok, it only took me 9 months to answer your question (that’s not too long to wait is it?) So very sorry – you have most probably figured out the answer by now, but if not, tell me and we will guide you through.
January 21, 2009 at 6:00 pm
Hi,
I am new at rug hooking. I have been buying used clothing. Some wool seems to be great & others not so. Do you know if 97% wool & 3% lycra would be any good? I was not sure as it has stretch.
September 6, 2009 at 2:26 pm
I would not use any wool that has Lycra content unless you plan to use it in a very small area. It is not fun to hook with because of its stretchiness, and it usually does not full very well when its washed.
February 18, 2009 at 6:57 pm
This is a very simplistic question! I just took one two-hour rug hooking course and was given a multi-colored star to do…I have finished that and am now starting a nine-patch/crow design. So–when I hook a row of the square, do I just turn the design so that the next row is also right to left and keep hooking? Or do I cut the wool at the end of the row and then hook the next row? I somehow was left with the impression that you cut the wool and now I think that that is wrong–
thank you!
September 6, 2009 at 2:28 pm
And since you asked me this back in Feb, I am sure you figured that out . . I am so sorry for being so absent! When hooking, never cut or start a new strip at the end of a row (in a corner) that buts up against the outer border. Try to turn that corner and hook a few loops, then cut and start a new strip. If can’t make it around the corner, cut and start a new strip a few loops away from the corner. You are right about turning and starting the next row.
February 18, 2009 at 9:17 pm
Sally, Thank you so much for your feedback! There are no other rug hookers near me, so I really do appreciate your prompt response.
September 6, 2009 at 2:29 pm
Well, I have not been so very prompt of late, but I promise to get better. So ask away!
March 11, 2009 at 4:05 pm
i am looking for books on how to shade and do pictorials. i live in missouri and can not find much help. any suggestions on the subject??
July 12, 2009 at 12:08 am
I am looking for the same thing as reba suggestions for pictorials any dvd suggestions are there any hookins close to northern california
September 6, 2009 at 2:31 pm
Reba and Saralyn
ATHA has a library of books that you can check out if you are a member (plus many other membership perks.) Check out the website at: http://www.atharugs.com/
You can also search for teachers in your area on their web site.